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1.
Begin by restringing the guitar. Replace the strings one
at a time. Gently but thoroughly stretch each new string
until it stays in tune. Then, install the next string.
When you have replaced all six strings, spend 5 or 10
minutes playing and re-tuning until the new strings
settle down and remain in tune. If you have a vibe
bridge, work the bridge somewhat vigorously during this
string breaking-in process. |
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2.
Retune and hold the guitar in playing position. Fret the
G string simultaneously at the first and 15th frets. You
are using the string as a straightedge! While fretting
the string in this manner, check the width of the air
gap between the top of the 7th fret and the bottom of
the G string. There should be a .005" wide gap. Use
a feeler gauge to check this. Using a capo at the first
fret will free up a hand for the feeler gauge! If the
gap exceeds .005", gently turn the truss rod nut
clockwise to tighten it. Turn the nut in very small
increments - 1/8 turn at a time. DO NOT over tighten the
truss rod! Tightening the truss rod will straighten the
neck, thus reducing the air gap at the 7th fret. If the
air gap is less than .005", gently loosen the truss
rod nut by turning counterclockwise. Again, adjust in
very small increments. When the rod is adjusted
properly, a .005" feeler gauge will only just begin
to rub the bottom of the G string when it's slid between
the 7th fret top and the bottom of the G string. |
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3.
Continue to hold the guitar in playing position, and
remove the capo. Re-tune. Then, use the 6" ruler to
check the action height at the 12th fret. Rest the ruler
on top of the 12th fret and measure the height of the
high E string above the fret. Raise or lower the treble
side of the bridge using the thumbwheel (tune-o-matic
bridge) until the E string "splits" or
"hides" the 2/32" line on the ruler. Now
check the low E action height. Raise or lower the bass
side of the bridge using the thumbwheel until the
2/32" line "only just" shows below the
bottom of the string. The line should show completely. |
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If
you have a vibe bridge, setting the bridge action is a
bit more complicated. Note the five mounting screws that
fasten the bridge to the body. These have been adjusted
at the factory and shouldn't require adjustment. If, for
any reason, you need to adjust these, DO NOT do so under
string tension. You will damage your bridge by doing so! |
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First,
tune the guitar, and check to make sure that the bottom
of the bridge is parallel with the top. If the bridge is
tipped forward (towards the neck), remove the springbox
cover plate on the back of the guitar. Next, use your #4
Phillips screwdriver to gently tighten the two screws
that hold the "spring claw" in place. This
will stretch the springs and thus will tip the bridge
backwards. |
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If
the bridge is tipping backwards (away from the neck)
carefully loosen the two claw screws, re-tuning after
every adjustment, until the bottom of the bridge is
parallel with the top of the guitar when the guitar is
in tune. |
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After
tightening or loosening the claw screws, you can proceed
to adjust the action at the 12th fret as described
above. |
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Use
your .050" Allen wrench to raise/lower the high E
string saddle (via the two height adjustment screws per
saddle) until the high E string just "splits or
"hides" the 2/32" line on the ruler.
Remember that the ruler is resting on top of the 12th
fret, and that you are measuring the air gap between
fret top and each string's bottom. Next, re-tune and
check the low E string height above the 12th fret top.
Raise/lower the low E saddle until the 2/32" line
on the ruler "only just" shows below the
bottom of the string. Finally, re-tune, and adjust each
of the remaining string heights in order to achieve a
smooth, gradual increase in string height from the high
# string to the low E string. The B string will be ever
so slightly higher than the high E; the G string will be
higher than the B etc.… |
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Please
note that the action at the first fret (via the depth of
the nut slots) is preset at the factory. It's best to
have a professional luthier make any adjustments to the
nut. Here are the specifications for the action at the
first fret. Again, measured from the fret top to the
underside of each string: |
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4.
Now it's time to
adjust your pickup height. Hold the guitar in playing
position, and fret both E strings at the 22nd fret. We
will be raising/lowering the pickups while measuring the
air gap between the pickup's magnet or pole piece screw
and the bottom of the high E and low E strings. |
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Notice
that each pickup has six magnets or pole piece screws -
one for each string. Raise or lower each side of the
pickups until the following air gaps exist between the
magnet or pole piece screw and the bottom of the
corresponding high E or Low E string. Use your #2
Phillips screwdriver for this adjustment. Remember to
fret the E strings at the 22nd fret in order to gauge
the adjustments: |
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| TCM
Narrowfield |
3/32" |
3/32" |
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| TCM T90
Neck |
3-4/32" |
3-4/32" |
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| TCM T90 Bridge |
2-3/32" |
2-3/32" |
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| TCM Single coils |
3-4/32" |
4-5/32" |
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| TCM Zodiac neck |
3-4/32" |
3-4/32" |
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TCM Zodiac bridge |
2-3/32" |
2-3/32" |
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5.
Setting your intonation is the final step in the TCM set
up procedure. If the preceding set up steps have been
done correctly, setting your intonation properly will
assure that your McInturff is working like the
high-performance musical tool that it was designed to
be. |
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Re-tune
the guitar (yet again!) and hold it in playing position.
Set your tuner to tune the high E string. Carefully tune
the open high E string. Then perform the following two
steps in rapid progression: |
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1.
Play the high E string's 12th fret harmonic right above
the 12th fret. The tuner should indicate a perfectly
"in-tune" note; tune up if necessary, and
then, 2. Fret the high E at the 12th fret, using your
"normal" fretting finger pressure. Note any
difference as indicated by the electronic tuner. The
harmonic note is always correct; we will be making
adjustments so as to make the fretted note match the
harmonic. |
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2. Fret the high E at the 12th fret, using your
"normal" fretting finger pressure. Note any
difference as indicated by the electronic tuner. The
harmonic note is always correct; we will be making
adjustments so as to make the fretted note match the
harmonic. |
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3.
If the fretted note is flat (lower in pitch) relative to
the harmonic, use your small flathead screwdriver
(tune-o-matic bridge) or your 3/32" Allen wrench
(vibe bridge) to move the high E string saddle towards
the neck. Do this in small increments, until the fretted
note exactly matches the 12th fret harmonic. |
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4.
If the fretted note is sharp (higher in pitch) relative
to the harmonic, move the saddle away from the neck,
until the fretted note exactly matches the 12th fret
harmonic. |
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5.
Repeat this procedure for each string, being careful to
keep the guitar exactly in tune during the process. |
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Good
luck!
Terry
McInturff |
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